Pool Table Pedestals
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For those who really have a taste for details, I present the construction of the pool table pedestals:

These are the pool table pedestals waiting for the table installation.  Below I'll show how the legs were shaped from glued up maple and then joined into a frame for the glass block.

First each of the four legs was glued and roughly shaped on the tablesaw.
Next, the rough leg "blank" was put inside a custom jig that is nothing more than a box with lag bolts coming in from the ends and a sliding top that forms a router base.  I call this a poor man's lathe.  Click the image for an enlargement.
The leg blank is loaded into the jig, and then the router bit is lowered to remove material as the base is moved back and forth.  
After each pass, the leg is turned very slightly on its axis so that the router has new wood to remove in another back and forth.
After many routing passes, a smooth rounded shape is developing. 
Now after removal of the leg from the jig...
We are left with a nice smooth "D" cross-section.  The flat part where the glass block will mount, and the rounded part will have aluminum bent around it.  Click on the image to enlarge.
(Your ad here) Unfortunately, I have no pictures of bending the aluminum around the legs and then assembling it with many biscuits to the rest of the frame.
Here is one of the pedestal frames, ready to receive the glass block.  The bottom sill is made of birdseye maple, but neatly coated with roofing cement to make a better bond with the mortar.  The metal brackets coming in from the legs are to tie the legs into the mortar joints.  Each leg is covered with aluminum bent around the smooth curve of the leg, and the blue strips are protective masking tape.

The same pedestal now has two of the three courses of 6" glass block.  The block comes from Pittsburgh Corning and is their omnipresent "Decora" style.

Now the block is all in, and the protective tape is removed.  The finished assembly weighs roughly 100 pounds, and is extremely rigid.  The jamb and header joints still need to be filled with caulk, but this is far enough to install the table.
Now repeat for the other side!
After the table installation, I fished an electrical cable through the raised floor and up through the pedestal.  You can barely see the wire coming up through the maple sill between the glass block and the aluminum on the leg.  This expansion joint will eventually be caulked white, so the wire will be completely hidden, yet power a light (possibly neon) under the table.
Here's the effect with a temporary florescent fixture covered with blue tape.  Pretty dramatic!


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